WINNEBEGO WONT START

Hello,
This is my first blog. I own a 1982 Winnebego Motorhome, with a Chevy 350 enigine that has very low miles. It was running fine with a few times that I would have to turn my ignition switch on and off a couple of times to start it., untill one day I packed it up and drove down my hill. I turned it off for a breif moment and it would not start again. I replaced the starter, silinoid and ignition switch, battery and checked my electrical wires. It still will not start. There is no clicking noise and it will not turn over. It makes no noise at all. just dead and no connection whatsoever. However, I do get dash lights and headlights. It also started with my self leveling jacks getting stuck in the down position. I found that fuse and replaced it. I live in a remote area where there are no RV or mobile mechanics and no auto part stores or RV parts place seems to know anything. If there is anyone who is knolegeable in this field it, an answer would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
Thank

Tags: winnebego engine problem

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Permalink Reply by Becky Blanton on January 6, 2010 at 10:23am: I had the same thing happen. It was my ALTERNATOR!! Go figure. An hour and three bolts later I was running again and have had no problems since then. I too replaced the starter, solenoid and ignition switch. Got lights, but no noise. You can have the parts place test the alternator just to be sure. But as long as it's out...it's a cheap fix. I think I paid $36 for a new one.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Danny on January 6, 2010 at 10:29am: hi..i would maybe check your neutral safety switch....giggle your shifter in nuetral to see if it works..or in park..while you have the key in stat position....hope this works for u...danny; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by VK on January 6, 2010 at 11:36am: Ignition switch? Try a remote switch; attach to the big terminal on the solenoid and one of the small terminals. (there's 2 small terminals, if one doesn't work, try the other) If the motor turns over, something before the starter/solenoid is bad.

This Chev has electronic ignition. Right under the distributor cap, underneath the rotor, is an electronic control module. It's just a small block. If this fails or gets hot, the result mimics a bad starter...the module is supposed to have a special silicone thermal grease protecting it-if this grease is missing or compromised, it causes a similar result. Since your rig was running and not quitting going down the road, I doubt this is your problem. However, the module can cause intermittant failures. Once it cools down, the rig will start again...

The self leveling jacks sometimes have a sensor switch to prevent starting in the down position. Check to see if your motorhome has it.

Hope this helps-been a few years since I worked on a Chevy. VK; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Chris on January 6, 2010 at 12:45pm: Horn relay switch thats in the steering colum that might be bad , thats the only thing my husband can think of that might be wrong you did and checked everything else he would have to. I asked around and if anyone tells me something else I will let ya know; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Nik Graves on January 6, 2010 at 3:10pm: replace the ground wire from battery to engine block...even if it has enough connection for lights it may have too much resistance to start...you didn tmention the regulator either...no click means no opower is getting to the starter...solenoids have been known to be bad right out of the box..might be worthwhile to check that out again...otherwise if it is all working right it has to be a wiring/connection issue. good luck!; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Jim on January 9, 2010 at 8:59pm: There is a wire from the coil to the positive, called the FUSEABLE LINK.

Find it, and replace it. You can also temporary bypass it with direct wire.

On my Chev motor, it was on top of the manifold near the carb linkages.

You can check the fuseable link by tugging on the wire. If it feels 'rubbery' then the wire inside has done its job, and popped like a fuse.

It will take the electrical out of the motor instantly when they pop.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Gary Sterner on January 18, 2010 at 12:55am: DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT bypass the fuseable link with a direct wire. If the link is bad, find out why it went bad. It is a safety device to prevent a fire when a short in the ignition system occurs. If you replace it with a direct wire, without finding the short, you could burn your rig to the ground or worse yet someone could be injured or killed as a result of a fire. Please don't take any chances with the fuseable link, if that is in fact the problem. Good luck in finding a solution.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Billy R. Hurley on January 9, 2010 at 10:55pm: Hey Jodie,
I saw your post and two thoughts came to mind. I am a old chevy man and there was two 350 s I had that had to have a ground strap hooked up in order to start. Let me try to talk you thru this, it's a flat cooper strap that has a loop/bolt hole on each end, one bolts to the fire wall at the indent on the rear of the intake on the passengerside. THe 2 I delt with had broke and the old faithful 350 would do just as you said yours is doing!

# 2 My dad had a 77 chevy pu that had to have a ground wire ran from the - side of the batt. to be grounded on the fenderwell.

I know these may sound silly to some yet I have had it work for me.
should not cast you byt $ 10.0 and some time..
Hope this helps? please keep me posted; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Kenneth Harlow on January 11, 2010 at 11:18am: Hello Jodi,
I had the same thing in my 1986 Winnie when I first bought it before restoration. Found out that my starting battery cable went to a solenoid and bypass relay so that the RV can be started from the frame batteries incase the main dies. The wires to energize that relay got shorted and had it in bypass because the harness came loose under the RV by the driver side front leveler and it had severed the harness. The lights and dash lights came on because the frame batterries were almost dead but not enough to start the RV. That was the start of my renovation with tackling the electrical wiring. I see everyone has put in some excellent replies to your delima and should be enought to hopefully get you back in the camp grounds.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Pat Daly on January 30, 2010 at 8:15pm: Thanks for all the input. This mechanic stuff sucks!!! I'm trying a couple more solutions mentioned. Does anyone have a diagram of where the ignition switch would be? The key is on the dash and the steering colum has a tilt wheel.
Columbia is in Tuolumne County, located between Yosemite and Lake Tahoe off hwy 49. It is a old western, gold mining State Park, next to Sonora, Ca. and not to far from Angels Camp & Murphy's Ca. It is highly recommend to all you R.V.ers that you vist this wonderful place. Bring your boots!!!
Thanks to all for thier suggestions.
Jodi; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Pat Daly on January 30, 2010 at 8:16pm: Hello everyone,
Thanks for all your input. I'am now more confused than ever. I have replaced the starter, 2 silinoids, the ignition tumbler, new battery and am getting ready to replace the ignition switch. I also got a electrical wire tester from an R.V. place. It does show there is power to the battery, but still nothing when I turn the switch. I also just replaced one of the silnoids but the tester only shows power on one side of it. Very confusing. It sure would be nice to get the ol' gal running and take her out for a breather. Thanks so much for your help. I will keep you posted.
Jodi; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by VK on January 31, 2010 at 12:33am: Check the leveling jacks for crimped/pinched wires and don't forget to install another ground.

The solenoid has power from the battery to one side. The small wire from the ignition allows power to the other side...If you are getting nothing at the small wire, trace back to find if there is a relay in line, a fuse, etc. VK; ▶ Reply to This